Cozy and cavernous
I had occasion to visit one of Sacramento’s newest establishments this week: De Vere’s Irish Pub. I found it to be a nice, though rather large, take on the pub. I have never been to Ireland, so I cannot vouch for its authenticity, but I did appreciate the layout of the space, which has partitions strategically placed throughout in order to create a more cozy atmosphere in what would otherwise be a cavernous space. These dividing walls section off “rooms,” each with their own character. I sat in the “library.” Windows and light fixtures adorn the walls. As you’ve heard, the decor is decidedly old world; the upholstery on the seats reminds me of King Arthur’s court. One of the things I like best about it is the lighting. Unlike the Irish pub chain Fado’s, de Vere’s has thoughtfully left the lights high enough to avoid causing me to suspect sudden macular degeneration upon gaining entry. I do think the place could use a dartboard, and it has a most unfortunate traffic whorl near the door that is going to cause problems in the long term (just ask the waitresses trying to navigate it on Saturday following the Amgen prologue).
Enough about the aesthetics, tell us about the grub and libations, you say? Fair enough. I ordered the grilled cheese sandwich with Irish bacon. It came with my choice of soup, chips (aka fries) or crisps (aka chips). I opted for the soup, which was a thick white bean variety. Irish bacon is a little more like Canadian, meatier, less fatty and gristle-y than American bacon. It was a nice addition to the sandwich, which came on some very hearty bread and included a tomato. All told, I got dinner and lunch the next day for a mere $7.50. My dining companion ordered the chips with a side of cheese dip that was quite tasty— blue cheese-ish. We made short work of two containers of the stuff.
Now, down to brass tacks. It wouldn’t be a pub without beer, and so that is what I got. There’s a decent selection of brews, including Murphys, Boddington’s, the ubiquitous Firestone DBA and Smithwicks— which is what I ordered first (don’t pronounce that “w” unless you want to look dumb). Sac Brewing Company makes two beers just for de Vere’s— a lager and an Irish red. Since I learned to drink in Chicago, I opted for the red, while my friend imbibed the lager. We snagged a taste of each others, and both found the other’s wanting.
If de Vere’s has one flaw, it is this: the price of the beers. The Smithwicks was $6. I experienced a momentary flashback to my time in DC, the land of expensive beer, upon receipt of my bill. However, the presence of the owners and the staff’s friendly demeanor indicate otherwise.
Next time I go, I plan to sample their whiskey and scotch selection. Yum.
